Poverty is everywhere in this province of Gikongoro

September 17 , 2005
(This was posted September 29. Sorry!)

It surrounds me, yet the Rwandans have a smiles on their faces. As I listen to my shortwave radio, I hear about it on all the newscasts esp. because of the UN meeting in New York where the Millenium goals set 5 years ago are being discussed. When I go to stores in the village the produce available changes all the time. All the dry goods are in see-through, no name plastic bags, in small quantities - Flour, salt sugar, etc. A type of super market grocery store isfound only in the larger cities and they are also stocked sparingly. The produce there, while more interesting, is pricy. I think I will splurge however on a box of dry oats so I can make some porridge and maybe try my hand at some granola bars this coming week. (Yes, all on a kerosene stove!)
Earlier this morning I was visited by my friend Jacqueline for the third time. She speaks only Kinyarwandan, looks ageless but probably in her 30's and extremely poor. Last time she was here she explained with gestures that she wants to clean up (i.e. weed) my garden. I had already given her some food when she came the other 2 times and I appreciate the fact that she wants to do something in return. I have to be careful. I am already now paying 2 people on my 120,000 RWfrs salary and she could be the third. Through the bishop's 12 year old daughter, Charlotte, there was some translating going on this morning. In spite of my saying, I thought she should wait because the ground is still way too hard, she has started anyway. I have already prepared a bag of carrots, tomato and an onion. I do not have that much food in the house.
Back from getting bread in the village. Got two buns for Jacqueline and her bag of veggies. She was not a happy camper. I know she prefers to have money but I am hesitant. J managed to gesture she wanted soap to wash her ragged skirt and top. So, I emptied some soap powder in an old water bottle and gave her an end of a bar of soap.
Language is a barrier here. I feel a bit uncomfortable with Jacqueline. She did a good job, but I have to feel my way as to how much I should be giving because I will be here a long time and do not want to give the wrong impression. She is sweet and could certainly use a good wash and some new clothes. I need time however to figure out how best to help her. The other two people in my service are Claudine, a wonderful young woman who keeps the tiny house sparkling clean and cooks pretty tasty meals. Sylvain is here the weekend nights as a security guard. There is a little room inside a door beside the front door where he has a bed and a chair. Not sure yet how much I will be paying him, but hope to find this out later today when I go to Butare to compare notes with other muzungus.

Another poverty moment: In Butare, Geert ( a young Belgian volunteer)and I are walking side by side. We have just bought some sweet buns at the Lebanese supermarket and he pulls them out of the plastic bag to eat one, but it falls on the pavement. At the same moment a woman approaches us begging for food. Dilemma: do we pick up the bun that rolled on the street and give it to her, do we give her a bun out of the plastic bag (there is only one for each of the 4 of us) or do we just walk on and assume she will pick the bun up from the street. We did the latter and she picked it up as we saw when we discreetly turned around. Not the best feeling, not the Samaritan way, but yes there are beggars in Butare and they really are hungry. We have taken to travelling with bananas or plain bread and hand those out when people ask for money or food.